It says something about a human being’s ability to place super-ego over instinct that we can throw ourselves out of planes at all. I mean, c’mon, tossing your meatsack out of a plane 10,500 feet in the air into a cloud strewn sky with nothing holding onto you is counter to thousands of years of evolutionary common sense. Grog the primordial caveman knew not to do that.
But there I was willingly about to jettison myself into midair, and I was even paying for the privilege.
“Ready?” my tandem jump instructor asked me, mouth grinning with straight white teeth, his eyes gleaming behind his dive goggles.
I was ready, sort of. I had actively listened when Angelo had told my friend and me how to curl like a banana around him during free fall. We were supposed to rest our heads on his shoulder, kick our legs between his and smack his butt with our shoes. I had watched him intently as he completed the safety checks once in the air. I had asked most of the questions that apparently everyone and their mother asks him (do I have goggles?) I was ready.
I met Aalia when we chased the same cat in a park in Amsterdam. My friend V was rolling a joint on a park bench, but she wasn’t very good at it. She muttered under her breath. A beautiful calico crossed my path, and I decided to try to make friends. It trotted around a bush, and so did I. That’s when I collided with Aalia.
She was a short little thing, wearing an all black dress, and had wispy nut brown hair that looked inexpertly dyed under a floppy black hat. Her eyes were shiny and bright brown, like an inquisitive squirrel’s, and her face was lined with wrinkles. She had a white scar on the right side of her face, just under her cheekbone. She was smiling like a child when I nearly ran her over. The cat darted under a large bush with an angry meow to show us she wasn’t pleased at being hassled.
“Couta awlad goed, bis bis baby, sa’ah? Inti tchoofee?” I stared. It didn’t sound like Dutch, or English, and I thought I understood… but I heard bastardized Arabic in the wind those days, because when you study a language everything reminds you of it. “Bitacki Arabi?” I asked cautiously, not wanting to scare the nice little Dutch lady. She let out a gasp of happiness.
I didn’t understand everything, but in rapid, pleased Arabic she announced she was from Iraq, she lived in Amsterdam now and had for many years with her only son. She was chasing the cat because she wanted to see if it had babies hidden under the bush so she could steal a kitten and take it home and care for it. My friend came over, seeing that I had been accosted. Aalia asked us then if we wanted to come over to her house for tea. And my friend and I, after sharing a barely perceptible shrug of ‘why not?’ agreed to follow her.
“A song for /someone who needs somewhere/ to long for. Homesick/ Cause I no longer know where home is.” – Kings of Convenience, Homesick
I have snuck into an Ottoman mosque with a professional Egyptian masseuse and danced on the roof under the stars. I have been told that I talk a lot of shite by an old drunk Scottish man in a pub in Edinburgh. I have hitchhiked my way from Jerash to Amman, getting in debates about Mohammed in Arabic with four devout men who I just met. I have climbed to the top of Table Mountain, and then descended down the other side into the verdant gardens of Kirstenbosch. I have night dived around Saba island, the golden bioluminescence trailing my fingers as I descended into the inky water with my flashlight. I have weaseled my way into an African UN prison facility by pretending to be someone else’s secretary and looking demure and non-threatening. I have skinny dipped with my best friend on a cool night at a beach outside of Barcelona, after a five course meal served by a kind old man who we communicated with quite well, despite him having no English and us no Spanish. I have woken up on a train and had to ask what Eastern European country I was in, honestly unsure of the answer I would receive (It was still Serbia, luckily). I have wandered, and lingered, and missed flights and made connections. I know at least a few words in over a dozen languages. I have friends on six continents.
To the unknowledgeable lay person, Paul Kagame’s face more readily lends itself to belonging to a nervous librarian than to being the visage of the president of an African state. If the Nigerian physical modality of leader is usually a man with thick set eyes, a powerful wide frame and sensual lips, Kagame represents the opposite vision of what an African visionary should be: an empirically-based intellectual, discursive yet pragmatic. But does the package that Rwandan leadership is wrapped in actually indicate that Rwanda has a Western style, democratically elected and respected president?
Kagame has certainly been a successful leader by many measures. He inherited (okay, won by force while with the RPF) a nation that was essentially dead, with over a million of its population killed by mid-1994. Since then, whether officially the vice president of president, he has led Rwanda, enacting austere social and economic measures that have not only prevented Rwanda from becoming a failed state, but also led to it becoming a developed powerhouse in the region.